I start each season thinking about the fabrics I want to use--cashmere and alpaca for fall and winter, my own pen and ink drawings for the cotton fabric I use with my rainwear and shiny, glittery fabric for my occasion-wear. Next I think about silhouette, cut and fit. I spend a lot of time working those things out, especially if the garment is in a new direction for me. For every collection, it all starts with either fabric or silhouette. I know from the beginning that these two elements must be compatible. The weight, drape, texture and hand of the fabric will make it appropriate for some types of silhouettes and not for others. By the third sample, cutting and fitting, adding and taking away, I am certain about the finished look. From here I go to grading my pattern from the medium size (my fit) up to a 1X plus and down to an extra small/petite. I produce both limited edition and one-of-a-kind garments using appropriate fabrics, focusing on fit, detail, style and flair.
My focus is on the surface of the cloth. I build pieces to be worn gently over the body. To get the colors, I mix my dyes from scratch.Tones, shades, warm, cool; my own recipes. I dye & over-dye using a shape-resist method to establish my patterns. Press, stitch & bind. I take the silk to where I want it to go. And it takes me. My work is pieced and collaged. I make use of heat & time. My references come from where my eyes land. Shadows, glare, skid. Mend & leave a memory.
My one of a kind coats are all designed by me and are unique, in that they represent a new body of work. Using all hand made, antique & vintage fabrics, buttons and other attachments. They range from wools, to hand woven and homespun linens. This stems from a long period of collecting and studying handmade and antique or very unique textiles. This allows me to express myself in what I consider a beautiful art form.
Goldyfish by Jessica Joy
Making one handbag at a time: keeping it simple. My work encompasses the highest standard of quality combined with true inspiration. I pursue the technique of handbag design and I am constantly learning the art of wearable fiber. When it comes to beauty, quality is everything. Each handbag is created from the finest suede, brocade, faux fur, silk, vintage fabric, feather, fringe & beaded trim from around the world. Additionally, I design my own custom fabric which allows the creative process to be ever more unique. After design layout and patterns are drafted, pieces are hand cut, layered with interfacing for structure and then constructed with impeccable craftsmanship. Handbags are an integral accessory for any occasion; they leave the door open for infinite texture and color combination.
I use warm material, like wool, acrylic, scuba and cotton. I use zippers as creative decoration. Many of my designs are versatile and they can be worn many different ways.
My designs are influenced by my fine art background and my training as a textile designer. These custom made pieces are hand loomed with finest merino wool, dyed and finally felted by hand. My aim is to create a wearable art that is elegant yet comfortable. All the work is done in my studio.
I hand-print a line of trouser socks, scarves & velvet gloves. My collection is sold in museum stores, galleries & boutiques across the country. My designs are often based on art historical sources - Renaissance pomegranate patterns, Medieval illuminated manuscripts, 19th century Lace, Middle Eastern embroidery, Gustav Klimt & Indian Mehndi. I began producing hand-printed legwear while working as an intern at the Costume Institute of the Metropolitan Museum of Art - which was then under the the direction of Diana Vreeland. I also create custom accessories for museum exhibitions: Imperial Tombs of China - Portland Art Museum (1996); Splendors of Ancient Egypt - Portland & Phoenix Art Museums (1998); Stroganoff - Portland Art Museum (2000); Turkish Diamonds - Pittock Mansion Portland (2009); Faberge- Hillwood Museum Wash DC (2011); Classical Splendor - Philadelphia Museum of Art (2016).
I begin my one of a kind hand painted clothing by cutting the pattern out of light weight silk or merino wool knit. I paint directly on the individual pieces with dye, using brushes, stencils and stamps. I relate my painting to the pattern shapes. I want the surface design to give the soft unstructured garment its definition.
It is my belief that a classic design always stays in style. I make limited addition women's clothing. The majority of my work is outerwear, i.e. coats, jackets and vests. My line includes shirts and assorted cloth accessories. All my garments are handmade in my studio using conventional sewing and needle felting techniques and materials. Each piece seeks to create minimalist effect. Most are embellished with hand needle felted designs to create balance and movement within the composition of fabric, felting and figure of the wearer. A garment of enduring quality stands the test of time.